Come along and check out our huge choice of wood flooring in our new flooring department within KD Carpets on Dragon Road, Harrogate.
21 Dragon Road
MON – FRI | 8.30 – 5.30
SAT | 9.00 – 5.00
SUN | 10.00 – 4.00
Your flooring could be UV Oiled, Lacquered or Natural Oiled, so you must know what finish your floor is in order to clean and maintain it correctly.
UV Oiled means the floor has dried in the factory under UV lights and the oil used has also been formulated to dry under UV lights. This process speeds up the drying time while also adding a much needed layer of protection to the surface of the floor. A UV Oiled floor does not need any special or additional treatment once installed; a normal cleaning and maintenance routine is sufficient.
A Natural Oiled finish means a natural oil is applied to the unfinished board usually by hand and left to dry on special drying racks. Natural Oiled floors must be treated again with another coat of oil immediately after installation, but check with the manufacturers guidelines beforehand.
Regularly sweep or vacuum your floor, but be careful not to scratch the floor with the vacuum head and always ensure you are using the soft bristle setting on your vacuum cleaner or a sift bristle broom.
For quick and easy cleaning a UV Oiled floor use Treatex Floor & Surface Cleaner. It comes in a handy spray bottle. Simply spray a dust free area of the floor and then use a clean slightly damp mop to wipe the floor. Repeat this procedure until you have completed the whole area or room.
Treatex Floor Care is a more concentrated version that contains vegetable oil and carnauba wax which means that as the surface is cleaned a thin replenishing and protective layer of wax is also applied. Just dilute 25-50 ml of Floor Care with 5 litres of water and mop with a very slightly damp mop.
Both Natural and UV Oiled floors require regular maintenance, although more frequent maintenance is required for naturally oiled floors and remember that doing this not only keeps it looking good, it actually improves and strengthens your floor.
Black Visqueen and foam underlay
Poly or duct tape
Circular or mitre saw with a fine-toothed blade
PVA wood glue
1. Make sure the concrete subfloor is level to a slope of no more than 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span.
2. Clean the floor so it is free of dirt and debris.
3. Lay the Visqueen and foam underlay over the concrete floor so the edges overlap each other by 8 inches for concrete subfloors that are either at grade (level with the ground) or below grade (in the basement).
4. Run the Visqueen and foam underlay 4 inches up the perimeter wall.
5. Apply duct tape to the full length of the seams.
1. Let the engineered wood acclimatise for about 3-4 days in the room where it is to be fitted, ideally stored flat at least 6 inches away from the walls. This should prevent any excessive shrinkage and swelling.
2. Place the first row of planks along one wall with a 1/4-inch expansion joint spacer against the wall every 12 inches and the tongue side of the plank facing out towards the room.
3. Apply PVA wood glue to the upper groove of subsequent planks. Wipe glue away from the surface immediately. Do not apply glue to the tongue side. Use a tapping block and a hammer to tighten the side joints together. Use a pull bar and a hammer to tighten the end joints together. Do not overtighten, as this could cause unnecessary stress on the joints.
4. Cut planks with a circular or mitre saw with a fine-toothed blade. Using coarse-cutting blades to cut planks will cause the wood to splinter and crack. Mark the cuts with a pencil and a carpenter’s square. Start every second row with a cut-off plank that alternates 1/3 to 2/3 of the length of a full plank. Use the following pattern when installing the flooring: Full plank – 2/3 plank – Full plank – 1/3 plank – Full plank – 2/3 plank – etc.
5. Remove the expansion spacers from the perimeter when the whole floor surface is installed. Remove the extra Visqueen and foam underlay running up the walls, and install mouldings over the expansion joins to cover them.
6. Do not walk on the floor for 24 hours to allow the glued joints to dry.
The importance of subfloor preparation should never be underestimated. Failure to properly prepare your subfloor will inevitably lead to your floor failing. To avoid such problems, we have prepared a simple 5-Step Guide to ensure that the necessary checks are made before you start laying your floor.
There are typically two types of subfloor:
Before fitting a new floor it is essential to know that the subfloor is below the danger levels of moisture content. This is not something that you will be able to identify by just looking! It can, however, be easily done using a Hygrometer. A concrete subfloor must have a Relative Humidity (RH) of 75% or less. We normally recommend a reading below 70% to give a margin of error. A timber subfloor must have a moisture content of no more than 11% Wood Moisture Equivalent (WME).
Installing over an uneven subfloor will inevitably result in excess movement. This will make your floor feel unstable and may lead to premature damage. To avoid such problems it is important to ensure that your subfloor is level. The British Standard requirement specifies that the subfloor should not vary more than 3mm over a 2m area.
Providing the moisture content of your subfloor adheres to the levels outlined in Step 2, you can go ahead and lay your floor. If there is any doubt as to the moisture levels in the concrete subfloor, always use a damp proof membrane which will seal the moisture below the surface of the floor and prevent the floor from expanding and distorting. With a timber subfloor, we recommend laying the Woodpecker Moistop Barrier Paper over the subfloor before nailing your floor down. This will help minimise the risk of moisture migration.
There are three methods to fitting a wood floor:
1. Secret nailing
2. Sticking down
Note: If you chose to stick down your wood floor, you should always use an adhesive that has been specially formulated to hold the timber after a short open time, but will stay permanently flexible to allow for the expansion and contraction of the timber between seasons.